FAQ from the SSUG-L log files & rec.woodworking

What is a Shopsmith? Differences in Shopsmith Models Shopsmith Terminology Shopsmith versus the Clones
Prices of Used Shopsmiths Shopsmith Table Alignment Motor Problems Where is Shopsmith USA
Where is Shopsmith Canada Bandsaw Troubles/Questions Jointer Blades Reducing Speed before Shutdown
Bearing Problems Jointer Advice Aux Table and Fence Alignment Aftermarket Fence for 500

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What is a Shopsmith?

Shopsmith Inc is the manufacturer of one of the finest 5-in-1 home woodworking systems made in the USA today, the Shopsmith Mark 5. Shopsmith ® is a registered trademark of Shopsmith, Inc.

The current Mark V is the model 510. It and the earlier model 500 provide the following capabilities:

  1. Table Saw
  2. Drill Press
  3. Horizontal Boring Machine
  4. Lathe
  5. Disc Sander

It can be easily converted from one mode to another. Also Shopsmith sells a wide range of attachments to extend the features of the base machine (see below)

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Differences in Shopsmith Models

There is a lot of difference between a Mark 5 and the 10E/10ER models. The 10E/10ER was NOT made by the company known as Shopsmith. The original producer of these units (Magna Corp.) is no longer around.

The currect company came into being in 1972 and has only produced the Mark 5 series. They do not have parts for any other models with the exceptions of very few.

The model Mark 5 or MKV 500 is the same unit produced today, with some mechanical changes inside the power head (headstock), as what was produced from the early 1950's on. There are other Mark models too. There was once a Mark II and a Mark VII, again the current company does not have parts for any other models with the exceptions of very few.

The Mark 5 Model 510 and the Mark 5 Model 500 both have the same power supply and both do the same basic 5 functions. However, the model 510 has a larger table system on it and things like the saw guard system and handles are easier to operate. The model 500 has been discontinued because of the decline in demand for it.

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Shopsmith Terminology

abbreviation for Shopsmith sometimes followed by the model i.e. SS510
the moveable portion of the SS that contains the motor. contains the quill and spindles for tool attachment. Easily identified by the speed control knob.
the moveable spindle that comes out of the right side of the headstock. commonly used in drill press mode and fine adjustments for table sawing and disc sanding. adjustments are made with the quill lever below and to the right of the speed adjust control. There is also a quill lock to prevent the quill from moving.
Way Tubes
the machined pipes that allow the headstock and sliding table to move left and right.
Sliding Table
this is the most common work surface on the SS. it is used as a table for table sawing, disc sanding, and drill press along with most other operations. it has a miter gauge track on each side of the table insert.
Table Insert
Different table inserts are available with slots for saw blades, dado blades, molder heads, and the drum sander.
Extension Table
An extension table with tubes can be inserted into slots on either end of the SS to provide support for large workpieces. The Model 510 has a "floating" extension table which is supported by the sliding table and maintains the same height.
Miter Gauge
Consists of a bar, which rides in one of the slots on the table, and a protractor head. The miter gauge is used to guide the woodpiece through the blade in cross- or miter cuts.
Rip Fence
A guide which attaches any of the tables which keeps the woodpiece aligned during rip sawing and some other operations.

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Shopsmith versus the Clones

The Mini Max machine is now being sold as EuroShop. I believe they have a few types of combination machines. I have heard they are very nice. Much more accurate and easy to work with than the Shopsmith. I have sent for the information. I got the number out of Wood magazine. 800/203/0023 is the number. I too am looking for a multi machine because I am limited on space. Keep me posted. Thanks

I have owned a Total Shop clone for about 10 years. I wouldn't say I've given it heavy use, but for most of what I've wanted to do, it's worked fine. I already had a table saw when I got the Total Shop, so I have not used that feature much. When I do, the unreliable alignment of the fence and the small table are the only complaints. I've used it in all the other configurations with good success.

The main differences between the Shopsmith and the Total Shop as I recall are that the Total Shop (TS) has cast iron tables vs. aluminum, the TS is heavier than the Shopsmith and the TS has a larger motor. I'm not that familiar with Shopsmith. I expect for a combination machine it is fine. The fit and finish on my Total Shop were adequate if not perfect. No assembly or set up problems.

If I could have afforded it, I'd probably have gotten a Shopsmith. But then, if I could have afforded it, I definitely would have built a separate heated shop and filled it with individual high quality tools, too. As it is, the TS fits nicely in the back of my garage. Besides, I'm more into hand tool work now, so it works OK as a supplement to that.

I don't have first hand experience with a genuine Shopsmith. The Taiwanese rip-off I bought 10 years ago is fairly crude. I thought I would save dollars, but the quality just isn't there. I paid a lot of money for something I was never happy with and I have regretted it ever since. It was false economy. If I had it to do over again I would pay the extra bucks and try the real thing. I don't know what I'd be getting, but I know what I've had. -Mike

Do not understand people's fascination with putting down one man's way of doing things. I have a friend that makes furniture and other things out of wood with his SS. The reason he has the SS, is because of room constraints like most of the other people who own one. No matter what you do, someone will put you down. They have been bashing R.Underhill and N. Abram for over three years now. If you buy this machine, you should've bought that one. If you have this you oughtta own this one. If you buy this tool you would be better buying this one. HOGWASH!!!! Just like computers, I have this one, it's not good enough, you would have been better off buying that one. Bull, they are all out dated before you get them home and have them running. People buy what is convenient for them and what is financially probable. Typically, any American will always be able to do you one better.

SCMI makes a combo tool in their Mini-Max line. It's a much nicer machine than the Shopsmith. There are a few others out there too. This is an important decision, so do your homework wisely. IMO, the table saw is one of the most important machines in a shop. Whatever you get, make sure it has a good table saw and a good fence (or can be adapted with a good fence).

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Prices of used Shopsmiths

Shopsmith Mark V with many extras for sale. Accessories include jointer, bandsaw, router/shaper, dado system, and many blades and jigs. Asking $2000.

Shopsmith Model 510 Mark V

Like new... used only once in table saw mode. Includes starter kit (castors, some bits, blades, etc.) Located in Greenville, SC $1000.00 (less than 50% of new cost)

For Sale 3 Year old Shopsmith Mark V Special, Most of the attachments. Speed Increaser, Router, 5 Arbors, tool caddy, mobility option, and many more!

Making the shop smaller, child on the way. List $2500, $1600 takes it.

What should a 1988 model Mark V (510) with the basic equipment including chisels and an accessory stand with bandsaw and belt sander run? I may be able to get it for about $7-800. Is this good bad or what?

What are the going prices for a used Shopsmith MK V, model 510?

I got mine for $1,100. It came with the 4" jointer, band saw, scroll saw and lots of extra little accessories. I see them for $800 to $1,300 fairly often with some people trying to recoup the whole shoot'n match up over $2,000. Most don't come with very many accessories so far as I have seen. That is here in upstate NY.

I paid $500 for a 510 about 4 years ago - no accessories.

Shopsmith Mark V for sale: $750

Standard accessories and manuals. Extras include jointer and faceplate attachment for bowl turning. Motor inspected and tuned by Shopsmith 4 years ago. ~~ For Sale: Shopsmith Mark V Model 510 in EXCELLENT condition. Includes all standard accessories, safety equipment and original documentation. Plus...14" bandsaw, router shield and chucks (1/4" and 1/2"), extra saw blades and inserts, stack dado blade with arbor and more.

New...$2000+ Asking $1400

Shopsmith Mark V, all standard accessories plus 4 inch jointer. $950. ~~ It has a band saw, lathe chisels, sanding disk, band saw. Take it all for $900

...what would be a fair price for a used Shopsmith based on its condition and/or age? For example: like-new, moderate-use, heavily-used, fixer-upper. Thanks in advance for your valuable input.--

Also depends on what accessories you want (or must) purchase with the machine. One can often find accessories for sale without the main machine, but seldom the reverse (my experience).

Older machines ('50s & 60s) can be found from $500 to $800; the condition is subject to your own standards, but most of these have probably been heavily used. The later versions ('70s & '80s) generally go for $1500 to >$2k, depending again on condition, features (model 500 or 510), and accessories. Accessories on older machines don't affect the price as much, unless all the accessories are newer than the machine.

SHOPSMITH MARK V MANY Access.Used Little. Pd $3000 Asking $1700/bo

SHOPSMITH Mark V, Model 510

5 basic woodworking functions in 1 compact system that covers only 12 sq. feet of floorspace.

Power system develops over 2 hp. with variable speed (700 - 5200 rpm)

Sawing: 10" table saw Sanding: 12" disc sander drilling: double column support ensures accurate drilling turning: wood lathe can turn large and small items boring: horizontal boring with great precision

manual, instruction booklet, fences, chucks, extra carbide saw blade and all accessories included.

bonus: router / shaper collar, shield also carbide bit. and set of turning knives / gouges for lathe.

locking wheels also included.

3 years old, seldom used.

sells for $3000 new, plus taxes.

Asking $1900; or best offer.

New Shopsmith Mark V with lathe, drill press, disc sander, table saw, and band saw. Included: dado blades, various saw blades (plywood, rip, etc). Table saw area will handle 4x8 sheets of plywood easily.

Used 1 time. $3400.00 invested.

Price: $2700.

For sale: 5 year old Shopsmith mark V in good condition. comes with bandsaw and belt sander attachments. comes with extra blades and belts along with other accessories, including disk sander and panel cutter. moving to smaller place and don't have room for shop. asking $1500 for all.

I bought my old 10 ER in December and have since seen a number of them for sale. More than 2 million are reported to be in use, so parts are often available from other used ones that are being stripped for parts. I see them for sale in the $250 to $350 range regularly.

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Shopsmith Table Alignment

Being the finicky sort I check alignment before starting a new project. My Shopsmith is now about a year old, and my only problem has been that the nut holding the guide rail (nomenclature?), on the outfeed side of the table, only allows for about a 1/16th of an inch of adjustment to square the table (miter slot)with the saw blade and the table seems to want to creep back to being slightly out of alignment.

Has this problem been solved by anyone or is it a non problem and something I am doing wrong?

If you have an answer to this question. Please send it to Tom Almy for inclusion in this FAQ. Thank you!

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Motor Problems

I have a 1954 Shopsmith good working order except for the motor. It seems to have a loss of power, gets up to speed ok but with any kind of drag at all it slows or stops. Ideas? Capacitor? Much obliged.

- Lars.

Go to your public library and get the book on Electric motors. This book will show you everything you need to know.The average motor lasts 20yrs,and there are a few small things that go bad on em,,Make sure that motor is actually at fault and not something possibly jammed that its hooked up to..Start capacitors can be bought at Appliance Parts suppliers store in yellow pages...

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Where is Shopsmith US?

Shopsmith Inc
6530 Poe Ave
Dayton, OH 45414

1-800-762-7555 EST 9-5
Tech Help 1-800-543-7586 EST 9-7
Sales 1-800-722-3965 Fax


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Where is Shopsmith in Canada?

We are the Canadian Dealers of Shopsmith.

6905 Millcreek Dr. Unit #3
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 6A3

(905) 826-4720 phone
(905) 826-4780 fax


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Bandsaw Troubles/Questions

I'm "borrowing" (possibly permanently) a Mark V Shopsmith from my aunt, who inherited it from my grandfather/her father. I'm not sure when the last time it was used before I got it home late last year.

Anyhow, I've been using the bandsaw attachment a lot, and I'm having difficulties with it. To begin with, if I crank it up to the right tension (and run the saw without feeding it stock), the blade works itself forward (and will come off the wheels if I'm not careful.) I just replaced both tires (partly because one of them broke) in hopes that it would fix the problem, but no luck. If I set it to a lower tension, the problem goes away. So: is there an easy fix to this tracking problem? (Or do I have to ship it to Dayton?) Is it a bad idea to operate the saw with a lower tension?

I'm also having problems aligning the cooling blocks; it seems that the arm has enough side to side (and forward-back) give that each time the arm changes height, the blocks need to be tweaked. Is there a fix for this?

And one final question. I saw a reasonably priced bandsaw in the recent AMT catalog. Am I having these problems because I have an old and poorly cared for [Shopsmith] saw? Or are these problems "just part of the territory" of bandsaw ownership?

When a bandsaw tries to spit out the blade you've fed it, it is often a tracking problem. In a nut shell, this means that the center lines for the two wheels are not parallel. Every band saw that I have ever seen has an adjustment screw or knob for setting tracking. If this does not work, there are several, though less common fixes. I suggest you consult FWW articles or one of several books written by Mark Duginske which address tuning a band saw.

As for your other question, using a band saw with too little blade tension will make it difficult to cut along an intentional line. It will also make it difficult, if not impossible, to have your cut straight and square to the board's face.

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Jointer Blades

My SS jointer is in need of new blades. SS wants about $35~$40 for the set. Grizzley has a set for about $15.00... After reading the SS docs, they have designed their blades with a slight bevel to them so when the wedge is put in place the blade and wedge "lock". This is a safety feature so if the wedge becomes loose the blade won't come flying out! I'm all for safety... I just want to know if anyone has used other (non SS) blades, and any recommendations you may have. (andy t. -> william_tudhope@we.xerox.com)

I'd like to put another twist on this question - does anyone know if carbide cutters are available for a Shopsmith jointer? Would such a thing be a waste of money? Thanks in advance.


If you have an answer to this question. Please send it to Tom Almy for inclusion in this FAQ. Thank you!

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Reducing Speed Before Shutdown

I recently acquired a Shopsmith 510 and note that the manual states that before shutting off the Shopsmith, the speed should always be reduced to slow speed. When performing repetitive tasks at higher speeds such as using the TS, this becomes annoying and I don't really understand why the speed has to be reduced and then increased again for the next cut. Is there some safety consideration involved here that I am missing?

The main thing is when you are finished working with the SS for the day, then reduce to the lowest speed. This allows the belt to be in a more relaxed state and expands the life of it. The faster you run the SS the tighter the belt gets. I know I must remember to practice this myself.

Good luck Earl, Portland OR

I recall reading something like that too. I usually don't follow that advice though. There are two reasons I can think of to do this: 1) The motor will get up to speed much quicker, reducing the startup current. This would be somewhat better for the motor. 2) If you change from a tool that requires high speed to a tool that requires low speed, you won't have a low-speed tool spinning faster than recommended. - les

I think they don't want you to mount a saw blade and turn the thing on with the speed set to max. Same for a disc sander. I just preset my speed before I mount a new tool on it. Saves time, and doesn't seem to hurt.


The main thing is when you are finished working with the SS for the day, then reduce to the lowest speed. This allows the belt to be in a more relaxed state and expands the life of it. The faster you run the SS the tighter the belt gets. I know I must remember to practice this myself.

I've noticed with my vintage (1954?) 500 hooked up to a 15 amp circuit that starting at a low speed makes a big difference on the load on the motor. The lights dim for what seems like a long time if I start at a high speed and the motor appears to be working much harder. With all that said, I don't know of any safety consideration starting at a high speed, but more of a long term wear on the motor consideration.

It's a safety step to keep you from over powering one of the attachments like the band saw. At Saw speed it would throw the blade off.

I think the manual probably is referring to situations where you may be changing functions, and thus you don't want to be starting something that uses a slow speed at a fast speed. In your case, I do not believe that there is the slightest reason in the world to turn the speed down before turning off the machine. I think it is irresponsible of manual writers not to think of stuff like this, but rather just make "blanket" instructions. Will Self

In these litigious times, it would be irresponsible of the employers of manual writers not to have the text vetted by legal staff, so as to protect the owners, directors, and top-level management from product liability lawsuits, or some other such thing. (Another disclaimer, I am none of those kinds of people for Shopsmith. I am some of those kinds of people for other organizations, and concern over this kind of issue takes up some non-infinitesimal amount of my time and energy) Practically speaking, the people who judge and jury such things know nothing about the cases they are presented with (curiously, an informed judge and jury must be disqualified), and the simpler the situation can be rendered, the better. If the instructions read, for example, "Always run the speed down before shutting off the machine" instead of "Generally, run the speed down before shutting off the machine, unless for the next time you intend to turn it on, you will run it at the same speed or higher", then *if* someone forgets and attempts to run his bandsaw at max speed, and the blade gets thrown and causes some damage, and said individual or his estate decides to sue, one has the stronger defense that the individual did not follow instructions, rather than that the individual exercised poor judgement.

I think that starting up at a higher speed also draws more current. SS recommends that you protect the motor with a 15 amp fuse or circuit breaker. If you start the machine at a high speed it will trip your circuit breaker or blow a 15 amp time delay fuse. I have my SS plugged into a 20 amp line but have a 15 amp fused outlet to protect the motor.

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Bearing Problems

I recently replaced the drive belt on a 1950's Mark V, and in the process, I noticed the quill bearing was noisy. Since this is an old machine, it doesn't have the dual bearings but just the one. I drove the old bearing off and when I went to install the new one, it slid on relatively easy - I didn't need to press it on but it appeared to fit ok. My problem is that there appears to be a lot of play in the bearing. When it is all assembled, the main shaft has a few thousands of an inch play (in and out). I took the bearing back out and it seems the inner race moves a little too much with respect to the rest of the bearing. I called SS and they are sending me a new bearing but I fear the same thing is going to happen. It just seems that the quality of the new bearing is very poor - the tolerances are very sloppy. The old bearing, although noisy, had no play at all. The play is not with the bearing on the shaft but within the bearing itself - something I had a hard time explaining to customer service. Did anybody out there have any similar experiences and what did you do about it? Any other comments or suggestions?

I recall reading about a kit that can update the machine to use a double bearing. Like John, I have noticed quite a bit of play in the bearing(s) of my quill.

I have injected oil into a sealed ball-bearing with a small syringe. I slipped the needle between the seal and inner race and injected about 0.5cc of oil. The idler on my rototiller runs much quieter now.

I replaced the quill bearing in my old SS during the time when the company was not in existence. I used a standard, high quality ($$), machine bearing. I did have to use a punch to get the thing on the quill, but it ran several years until I had the current modification installed. I think the bearing modification is worth it.

I went ahead and coughed up the money to buy the retrofit double bearing from SS. When they have it on sale it's something under $70.

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Jointer Advice

I'm looking for some advice on the jointer attachment for a SS Mark V. A co-worker sold his SS a while back, but kept the jointer (in a homemade mount with its own motor). He now wants to replace it with a larger one, and I'm considering buying his old one (actually, my wife is considering letting me buy it :-). Anyway, if you own or have had experience with the jointer, I'd appreciate recommendations, horror stories, whatever. The owner wants $250 (includes 2 sets of steel knives and 1 carbide set, plus the motor/stand he's currently got it on). I haven't seen it yet so I don't know what kind of shape it's in, although the owner says it's in excellent shape and I would tend to believe him. Thanks, Dwayne Trego dct@cbdes.cb.att.com P.S. I realize that this is a 4" jointer and may have limited use on larger pieces of wood, but I think it will fit in with what I do nicely. I'm more concerned with accuracy, reliability, if it has any real pain-in-the-rear adjustments (over & above what a regular jointer has), etc. If my Mark V is any indication, it should do just fine, but you can't beat first-hand information...

I get by with my SS jointer. Several times I have wanted a larger one, but it has served me well. I have it on its own homemade stand with motor, and I strongly advise that, unless it's the ONLY add-a-tool that you have. Tell your co-worker that everybody on the net said you should get it for $200 :-) Will Self

I have a SS jointer and have been very happy with it. Yes, the 4" jointer tends to be limiting. But, I have found it to be very accurate, although I've only used it for edge jointing boards for edge gluing. I have not bevel jointed or used it for rabbeting. I have had the knives sharpened a couple of times, so I have had two good experiences in reinstalling them. I would suggest getting a Magna-set, otherwise the knife-setting will be a 45 minute to an hour project. Hope this helps. Frank Hansche

I concur with Will. I think that the jointer has performed well for my needs. However, I do agree that $200 is a more reasonable price.

I purchased my Mark V along with the jointer and Bandsaw second hand, in Dec 1970, just before returning to New Zealand. The Mark V and Band Saw are still going strong as part of a now much larger work shop. The jointer gave me 14 years or reliable service, before I replaced it with a Hitachi A1000. Check in and out feed tables with a straight edge for wear. make sure that the jointer spins at the recommended speed. you can refer to"Power Tool Wood Working For Every One" By R. J. De Christorforo Pub Magma. Good luck and keep your hands away from the blades Regards Tom Wustenberg

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Aux Table and Fence Alignment

I was recently ripping some wide long pieces of oak using my old (1950~s) Mark V and was having great difficulty getting my fence aligned correctly. My setup is the original version with the small table and single auxiliary table. I had the fence aligned ok when it was on the table but when I had to put the fence on the aux table (or straddle both of them) I had a lot of problems. I tried to get the aux table aligned to the main table using a straight edge along the top and front of the rails where the fence clamps on but it wasn't easy. My aux table simply bolts to the tubes assembly but I noticed the new models have nuts and washers to allow for better alignment of the table. So, I removed the bolts and inserted studs with nuts and washers on top and bottom of the table bracket so I could do the same. I was better able to align the aux table to the main table but the procedure is still kind of tough. Does anybody out there have any advice on what they have done for aux and fence alignment or do most people have the new 510 setup? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I have the old 500 setup. I have built a table that attaches between the main table and the aux table. The main table is on the right and the aux table on the left. This makes for a table width of about 4.5 feet. I can use the fence on my table, the original tables or both. When I set the fence for a cut, I measure from a tooth on the blade to the fence (perpendicular to the cut). When I get my desired setting, I then get a new reference measurement from the fence to the edge of the factory table or a miter slot. Then I adjust the front and back ends of the fence so it matches this reference measurement. It is time consuming, but is the only way I can get an accurate cut without spending the bucks on the table upgrade or a better saw.

Note: The 3/8" bolts on the ends of the table go into holes in the sides of the original SS tables. The main table is then moved to the left to engage the bolts (I don't use nuts to attach my table - makes it quicker to put on and take off). I did not include dimensions in this drawing, since I designed it before actually building it, and was too lazy to include dimensions later.

My fence is bowed inward in the middle such that if you put a straightedge from end-to-end along the fence, there would be about a 1/8" gap in the middle. I have to keep a piece of flat hardwood bolted to the fence all the time to get around this. Kevin Farlee

No problem with bowing. I have converted to 510 configuration, but had my 500 fence for about 30 years. The only problem I had with it was that it would pop out of alignment occasionally and the "other" end of the fence could be moved a little. John Gonser

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Aftermarket Fence for 500

Is there an aftermarket fence available for the model 500? I detest the stock fence. The table upgrade really isn't an option. The cost would make a significant dent in a real table saw. How do you cope with setting the fence on the 500? Currently I have to set the fence by measuring the distance between the fence and a tooth on the blade. Then without moving the tape measure or rule, I measure to the edge of the table or miter slot. Next I adjust the ends of the fence to match this second measurement - I have to measure at least 6 times (the last two are a double-check). It works, and sure beats a hand saw!

Les, your fence should align itself when you tighten the handle. It sounds like something is wrong there. Are the little alignment-adjustment screws set correctly? Take a close look at the underside of your fence to see if anything looks wrong. Once the alignment problem is fixed, I think the easiest way to set up for a cut is to have the quill completely backed off, set the fence for a small amount--eighth of an inch?--too much, and then adjust the quill for the final measurement. I never was satisfied with my Shopsmith as a table saw. Now that I have a separate table saw and use the Shopsmith for everything else, things go pretty well. Oh yes. Also, for easier operation, try lubricating the working parts in the fence.

Good question, and while we are at it, is there an alternative to the fence for the 510? I seem to be having trouble getting it to maintain alignment once I have it set. Also, any feedback on the fence for the bandsaw? Is it worth buying, or should I stick with clamping on a straight piece of scrap for now. Susan

Hi Susan; Greetings from New Zealand. If the fence is still the same as the one on my markV,it should lock at both ends of the table once the hand screw is tightened.. Sometimes the locking tab on the far side of the table would not engage properly& the fence would be out of alignment. Are the locking screws that hold the"T" piece to the fence tight? there are 2 set screws on the face of the fence T piece guide. These are set using the hex key. This should have to be done only once. If the new band saws are the same as my late 50s- 60 era Magna band saw, there are two slots normal to one another in the face of the table. these take the miter guide. I prefer to use it on the bandsaw with the hold down removed. It can be used as aid to feeding the saw, or set parallel to the blade as a fence. used with a bet of scrap wood to extend it, it is accurate, quickly adjusted, & can be used as a depth gauge for production runs. I will have to get some pictures of the new SS to compare them to my old friend. regards Tom

I am not aware of any after market fence for the Shopsmith. On the 510, which I understand has a better fence than the 500, there are two adjustment screws under the fence that are used for alignment. The first thing you need to do is align the mitre slot with the blade. Then using the t-square in the mitre slot with a tri-square, align the fence so that it is parallel with the blade. I usually loosen both screws, align the fence, and then tighten one of the screws while the fence is still on the table. To reach the second screw you must remove the fence from the table. I usually check the alignment of my fence at the beginning of each new project. My fence seems to hold its alignment fairly well. The biggest problem with the fence is that you can have any sort of measuring device installed because the table moves in relation to the blade. Rudy

Once, about 6 months before the Shopsmith shop that I used to visit closed, I thought I saw "New and Improved" fences, made by Shopsmith for sale for the model 500. They looked very much like the fences that come with the 510. I didn't really look that closely, I could be mistaken. I would suggest that anyone interested in a better fence call the Shopsmith mail order number and ask if what I think I saw exists. It's really too bad that the Shopsmith store that I used to visit is gone. Are they all gone? I hate having to buy anything from mail-order without physically touching it and looking at it! I once saw an add for Shopsmith equipment sold through a different retailer. Does anyone know of such a dealer in the New England area? Steve

Yes, all of the factory stores except the one here in Dayton have closed. Prior to the "big closing" last spring, about half of the stores were sold to Woodcraft. Even the Dayton store, which is physically attached to the factory, has been downsized. It only carries Shopsmith tools and accessories now, where you used to be able to buy hardware, finishes, dowels, and so on. The home office was consolidated into the space vacated by the rest of the factory showroom area. I'm not aware of any 3rd-party selling. I believe Shopsmith only sells direct from their one store, mail-order, and from trade and mall shows. -- Patrick Freeman

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If you have a better answer to any of these questions, please send it to the keeper of the FAQ, Tom Almy for inclusion. Thank you!